Cafes & Wineries

There’s a big billboard - right pass the Super Dome – Lüke- A John Besh
Restaurant – 10 foot high letters – my cynical New York knee jerk – Tourist Trap !! -  but - John Besh ?? - he’s the  &quotIT&quot chef of New Orleans
– a James Beard Award winner – what’s going on –

Two days
later – exploring New Orleans by car – cigar smoking – radio playing - NPR’s All Thing
Considered – they interview John T Edge – a Mississippi
food writer who i’ve read and written of before - and -  Brett Anderson – the food
critic for the Time Picayune – NOLA –

"What’s new ??"… "What’s hot ??" - the correspondent asked - amidst the responses – "Lüke"

Checked online – reviews from May when LUKE opened – table service "disjointed" enough to destroy the best meal – even as other reviews cited
the food and flavors – ran it by the Concierge – “everything has been
fixed” – drove uptown to Tulane for wife and daughter&nbsp - debate – agreement – go
for it –

Only regret – we almost canceled – i.e. – what a meal !!!!

Its a very "un" New Orleans restaurant - bistro - while at the same time - absolutely in the right place - the hot App menu lists an Onion tart - immediately bringing forth an image of Andre Soltner - late of Lutece - as the absolute standard bearer - every other onion tart being judged against his perfectionist’s rendition - well this one is as far from Lutece as Chef John Besh could take it -

A nine by twelve inch wooden cutting plank - atop which was a seemly free form mass of melted cheese with the faint outlines of cut marks across its surface - beneath - sweet sauteed onions - atop a super thin free form crust made chewy as it takes up the excess moisture - the flavors - the textures - all in perfect balance - you want to cancel the other apps you had been stupid enough to order -

And then rest of the food began to arrive -

Roasted oysters with wild mushrooms, bacon and aioli - good but I kept stealing pieces of my wife’s onion tart -

Warm bittersweet plantation goat cheese salad, heirloom tomatoes, country ham and croutons - consumed in absolute silences - as she tuned out the world to enjoy -
12.00

Seafood gumbo á la Creole - had to try - ordered a cup - way too much food - but the taste was shared by all - smiles by all - worth going the distance

Jumbo Louisiana shrimp “en cocotte” with Anson Mills cream white corn grits and Jacobs andouille - what was tasted was amazing - but this dish fell into - too much to eat - packed it up at the end of supper - trucking it home to the hotel mini bar - which prompted "movement" of mini bar items - picked up by infrared sensors - triggering a charge which had to be corrected on the final hotel bill - still - it was a great midnight snack -

Jagerschnitzel mit spätzle - paneéd veal cutlets with chanterelle and oyster mushrooms - jumbo lump crabmeat - one of the most extraordinary dishes I have ever eaten - totally out of character with NOLA - adding the crabmeat was an act of pure decadence while bringing it all back to New Orleans - i.e. - somehow it all worked - a boneless cutlet - pounded thin until it covered the entire plate - breaded - fried - server atop spätzle with the mushrooms - crowned with a large mound of lump crabmeat - eat slow - savor each combined bite - flavors - it captured my full attention - who cared what anyone else was eating - or offering as tastes - this dish had the mojo -

Ravioli of local crabmeat - simmered with garlic, cream, lemon and fresh herbs - my daughter insisted on my tasting - i indulged - wow !!! - she’s not a foodie - but flavors like this can prompt immediate conversion - interesting sidebar - in the hotel elevator later that night - someone asked where we had dinner - &quotLüke&quot I offered - &quotdid you try the ravioli&quot my fellow passenger asked - a smile was all the response necessary -

Dessert was a slight let down - Bread pudding - like a ballerina in the New York City Ballet - a star on any other stage - but at this venue - merely a member of the corps -

We were in town 4 days - three nights - ate seven "New Orleans" meals - this was hands down - the best - can’t wait to go back -

Enjoy -

By the by - wine for the night was  - Dr. Loosen Berkastler Lay Riesling Kabinett 2005 - a perfect contrasting compliment for the right flavors of the night - light - flavorful - nice acid - crisp - a touch of spritz - allowing one to simultaneously clear and enhance the pallet - perfect choice - moderate price -

Oh yes - officially the onion tart is - Flamenküchethin Alsatian onion tarte with bacon, caraway and Emmenthaler cheese -

Lüke
333 St Charles
New Orleans, LA 70130
504.378.2840

100 wines by the glass - cheese bar - salumeria - panini bar - olive bar - Balthazar bread -

Just opened - two half blocks south of parent Vespa - 1609 Second Avenue btwn 83rd & 84th - 

As comments on Red Ia Life’s previous post - The Palm Is The Palm - proved out - no restaurant recommendation fires the emotions of New Yorkers more than naming their favorite steakhouse -

On any day - the knee jerk poll puts Peter Luger at the top of the class - but - as today’s (9/19/07) Frank Bruni review -  The Original Masters of Blood and Butter  - documents - don’t be so quick -  for while things can be as they have been - things may not be - and - the total package may be off - particularly when compared to the current landscape -

Bottom line - when Luger’s is on - "No other steakhouse serves a porterhouse so breathtaking" - but even Bruni had to go back repeatedly before he could make that remark -

Its a good read -

My daughter raved about Dante’s Kitchen all summer long - "when you come visit me at school - we have to go" -

Asked a New York based friend with a second house in the Garden District about Dante’s - "I wanted to have my engagement party there" -

In NOLA to help &quotset up&quot for the new school year - parents of college
students can translate &quotset up&quot for non college student parents - mentioned brunch at Dante’s to her roommate - she lit up -

Sunday morning - we were there - exceeding its pre-press - amazing !!!!

Rain threatened - a couple sat on the porch swing outside - everyone else - crowded  the hostess station - waiting for tables  - "grab a drink" was the suggestion - exotic cocktails abounded - Bloody Mary’s were the choice - our table was ready just as the bartender put the pickled green bean and okra into the glass -

Five small dining rooms - akin to someones converted house - ours was at the top of a six step landing - behind the hostess stand -

What to order -

Daughter totally at home - she ordered Homemade Corn Beef Hash and Poached Eggs over toast with Creole mustard sauce - only to be told that the man seated at the table directly behind us had gotten the last serving for the day - thought she was going to kill him - in a nice way -

Second choice - she settled for Debris and Poached Eggs on a caramelized onion biscuit and topped with a demi-glace hollandaise - as I’ve written before - Debris is the chunks and bits of meat left in pan after whatever it is you’re cookin as a main course - in this case - dark - caramelized - overwhelming flavor intensity - one immediately wants to pick up a "tidbit" - never stopping until not a morsel is left on the plate - if this made her happy - can only image reaction to the dish that was 86′d -

Wife ordered  - Dante’s Eggs Benedict - roasted rosemary rubbed pork loin, sliced, and served over a caramelized onion biscuit with honey, poached eggs, and hollandaise - major improvement of Columbus Avenue version - consumed with a smile -

For me - Gulf Fish and lump Crabmeat Cakes grilled and served with poached (subbed scrambled) eggs and sauce Charon - perhaps heavy on paper - sensual and delicious - without weighing you down -  perfect wedding of tastes and textures - 

Another pre-press "rave" - Caramelized Onion Biscuits - as good as they sounded-

Dessert ?? - a plate of Homemade Bread - orange and cranberry bread, mocha bread, banana pecan bread, CHOCOLATE BREAD !!! - to die for -

Second round of Bloody Mary′s augmented by Vodka Lemonade with Watermelon Juice - what a kicker -

Finished late brunch - asked - "what shall we do this afternoon?" - unanimous response - "let’s take a nap" - who am I to argue -

It looks like a big - even fancy - restaurant from the outside – but when you get
in – its just 22 swivel stools around a curved marble counter –

Instantly you sense a vibe – half a dozen waiters in white coats
with clip on black ties - hang in front of the two grills on opposite
sides of the restaurant – folding white linen napkins – serving food –
chatting up the  customers –

When you approach the counter – a server steps forward – extending
his outstretched arm towards you with a lightly clenched fist – what
the hell? – then you get it – extending your own arm and hand and fist –
tapping knuckles – WELCOME!!!! –

Peruse the menu – look around at what others are eating – what the
two line chefs are cookin – “what’ll you have” – the server fills out
the individual preprint – then calls out the order– "burger dressed – 2 eggs over - cheese omelet well – chili – chili fries –

You continue to look and talk and ask questions – until the food
shows up – bowl of chili – spicy – thick – genuine – perfect – chili
cheese fries – my wife and daughter would not let me get near – not a
single morsel left – eggs – grits – bacon - the finest chicken salad I have ever tasted - iced tea – its was supposed to be a
snack – then - I saw them make an omelet – and - the burgers can only be
as good as they look – no - no - no - can’t do this today - come back - soon - very soon -

Its a plan - stay tuned -

Camellia Grill
626 South Carrolton
New Orleans
(504) 866-9573

"What’s your favorite Steakhouse?" - its the question asked of everyone New Yorker by every Out-of-Towner - for that matter - by every New Yorker of every New Yorker -

Peter Luger - Spark′s - Morton’s - Wolfgang′s - Strip House - Michael Jordan’s - Gallagher’s - The Old Homestead - Frank′s - Rothman’s - the list goes on -

My choice - when asked - after a long day at The Belmont Stakes - The Palm

Why -

When we walked in - the Palm was The Palm - same cramped space - same worn walls and caricatures - same looking waiters in over-sized beige jackets - same squeeze to get to the bar while we waited for our table - although on this night - we never got a chance to "belly up…." - moving right to a six top -

Several in the group ordered drinks - I moved to the wine list - somewhat short - no where near the program of Rothman’s or Morton’s - but solid choices - traditional (expected) full price markups - but not totally out of control - choose - - - -

Caymus Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley  2004 - wonderful - strong - very cab’ish - edges were a bit too defined - although the tannins had softened as to not be cutting - priced a bit high in relation to the retail - but a solid companion in keeping with the meal - the 2004 is just too young for a wine that will reach greatness -

Ordered from a menu that I cannot think of a reason to look at - haven’t been to The Palm in years - but already knew - the menu has never changed -

Fillet Mignon - a near perfect piece of meat - asked for "hard" medium - thats exactly what I got -

Creamed Spinach - for the table - solid - classic

Plate of Fried Onions - these were perfecto - large portion - crisp and totally dry - how did they do that - great taste - added to each bite of steak -

Hashed Browns - asked the waiter which potato to order - he pushed for these - absolutely correct choice - crisp on the outside - creamy on the inside -

Six big guys at the table - three sides for the table - more than enough -

Did order an appetizer - "fried oysters" - weird - the "oyster" was excellent - served on an individual bed of mashed potato - in its own individual oyster shell - they should stick to simplicity - like the classic shrimp cocktail that someone else ordered - sure the chef was trying for something - the mashed was a waste -

Needed more wine - went with -

Bertani Amarone 1999 - smooth as silk - the richness of the Amarone Valpollecila - pricing was less than 2X - a great wine with the meal - if I had to do it over again - would have ordered this twice instead of a single bottle after the Caymus -

Final score - a perfect Steakhouse meal - The Palm remains The Palm

Fine dining and wining at Eleven Madison Park -

Magnificent high ceilinged room - majestic - inviting - the moment you walk in - you know you’re in for something special -

85 page wine list that I fortunately perused from the home computer - knowing that no one in the evening’s group took the red stuff as seriously as your truly - Lafite ‘82 - full flight of Bryant Family Cabernet - the wines (plural) of Giuseppe Quintarelli - the meal can be good or bad - I know I am going to enjoy myself -

Wonderful front bar - large single malt selection - including Adelphi - the first Scotch to actually knock my socks off -

The menus are proffered - three course (82) and four course (96) prix fixe - plus a full page tasting menu (145) intended for the entire table -

Massive wait staff catering to every beck and call - though when standing idle - appeared to almost outnumber the diners -

Waiter/ Captain asked for food allergies - before any dining preferences could be volunteered - a busser mistakenly put the extraordinarily intense California Strawberry Gazpacho with Hawaiian Prawns and Guanciale in front of one diner who was allergic to all things from the sea - instantly whisked away by a waiter acknowledging the mistake before the diner could bring it to anyone’s attention - replacing it in moments with California Strawberry Gazpacho with Guanciale SANS Hawaiian Prawns -

Shall we order -

• “Green Salad” - Variation of Green Spring Vegetables with Fresh Almonds - masterful presentation
• Big Eye Tuna - Thinly Sliced with Provence White Asparagus and Montegottero Pistachio Oil - didn’t get to taste this but one of my fellow diners grabbed a taste of the tuna carpaccio perfectly wrapped around the spear from his wife - having a eureka moment - unfortunately only one stalk of Asparagus - so I felt guilty trying for my own taste - next time -
• Maine Diver Scallops - my choice for a main course - asked to it a double - crisp tops - each one was the same exact size as the next - wonderful - light - defined tastes
• “Êlevages Périgord” Foie Gras - “En Torchon” with Venezuelan Cocoa and Rhubarb Gelée ($15 supplement) - my wife went for it - awe - silence as she savored each bite - can′t swear she was closing her eyes - but its a safe assumption -
• La Ratte Potatoes - Gnocchi with Hawaiian Prawns, Calamari, Celery and Meyer Lemon - never knew anything "potato" could be so light - marvelous - multi flavors with each forkful -
• Atlantic Halibut - “Mi-Cuit” with Asparagus, Black Truffles and Sauce Vin Jaune - raves from the other end of the table -
• Aged Colorado Lamb - Herb Roasted with Artichoke “Barigoule” and Petite Silvetta Arugula - the review was "yum"
• Four Story Hill Farm Veal - Herb Roasted Duo with Garden Peas and Oregon Morels - another smile of complete satisfaction -
• Grimaud Farms Muscovy Duck - Glazed with Lavender Honey and Spices (for two) - they bring the entire duck out for a look see - perfectly good - massive spices extending like a spread tail - after the ooohs and aaahs - the server disappears - the plate is presented with 4 or 5 perfectly carved slices of rare breast meat - I’m not into duck -but those that were - and those that order - were mightily impressed -&nbsp
• Blood Orange - Tart with “Fromage Blanc” and Fennel Ice Cream - magic although my wife rated it as too sweet -
• Decaf Cappuccino - a work of art - the cup was a series of horizontal cocoa brown and white strips - the beverage itself was a gentle swirl of cafe and milk - matching the outside of the cup - you have to see it to experience this subtle piece of elegance -

What to drink -

Hundreds and hundreds of wines - well organized - lots of wine by the glass - almost as many champagnes by the glass -

- Burgundy - Pinot Noir - Italian everything - Bordeaux - Cabs - you name it - though nothing from Sicily - then I saw an old friend - Giuseppe Quintarelli, Rosso Ca’ del Merlo - not just a single bottle - but ‘96 &amp ‘97 - plus Russo del Bepi ‘96 &amp ‘99 - plus Amarone Classico ‘97 and Amarone Classicao Riserva ‘95 - best of all - the Rosso Ca’del Merlo ‘96 - which normally retails for $75 is on the Eleven Madison Park wine list for a mere $85 - who am I to argue -

Ordering turned out to be snap - when I mentioned it to our waiter - he lit up - as the Ca’ del Merlo was his personal favorite - and - no he couldn’t explain the low price - who was to argue -

The wine itself - rich - full - cherries - without being heavy - Valpolicella - its made with the Ripasso process -

A brilliant concept for increasing the amount of flavour and interest in basic
Valpolicella. The Valpolicella wine is passed over the unpressed but drained must of
an Amarone. The bittersweet intensity of the Amarone is imparted, in a small
way, to the basic Valpolicella, possibly with the help of a minor secondary
refermentation.

Call it acquiring the mojo -

What I like best about this wine and its younger sibling - Quintarelli’s Primofiore - you can drink these with anything - its always in balance - it never overwhelming - quintessential definition of the wonderful wine experience -

With all this wonder stuff - why not a 100 rating -

Several years ago - my wife and I dined at Jean Georges - we skipped home along Central Park West - exchanging remarks of how good this or that was - marveling at the subtlety of the service - the magic -

When one walks into Eleven Madison Park - the are no surprises - the army of staff on the sidelines - the food is excellent - the portions VERY small - the conversation at our table was all about the world - not the food - this is a restaurant that requires foodie speak - otherwise - unlike the evening’s wine - the mojo is missing - 

Fear not - we will be back - stay tuned -

HBH

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